Waiting, Waiting ...

Yes, I have been remiss in updating this blog. Here are a list of the obstacles to regular blog-writing: lack of reliable wifi; numerous boat projects; having to walk everywhere (or at least beg a ride); the need to socialize with fellow cruisers; general laziness.

Now that the apology is out of the way, let me say that a lot has happened in the past few weeks.

Our leg into Charleston was a bit rough. We got fairly strong winds out of the west and could not beat into the waves. So, we spent an extra day offshore waiting for the conditions to moderate. After a first day of first-rate sailing, we had a second day of second-rate motoring and then a third day where we had to stand off, that was fairly miserable. Crew was seasick off and on and we had to fight our way into the Charleston inlet, as we arrived when the tide was set against us. Yes, we could have hove to and waited, but no one wanted that. The highlight was a pod (or several pods) of dolphins that rode our bow wake for much of the last day. Dolphins have become a commonplace sight, of course, but we still get excited to see them. We tried trolling a line for Mahi or Tuna again, but no joy.

Meantime, we managed to rip two points on our second reef. And, the depth sounder decided to pack it in. More repairs.

The biggest problem is that I had decided not to refuel in Morehead, thinking that 45 gallons of diesel would be sufficient for what was supposed to be a two-day passage. I was wrong. As we sucked down fuel setting into steep easterly waves and wind, we kept watching the level. It was pretty clear we wouldn't have enough to make it -- and running out of fuel in the Charleston inlet, with its strong current, was not something we wanted to do. I think it was Morgan (who did an expert job of getting us closer under sail) who suggested calling Tow Boat U.S. to bring us fuel. Once again, we used our sat phone, as we were too far offshore for cell phone service. The dispatcher sounded annoyed at our request, but when the tow boat operator arrived with 10 gallons of diesel, he seemed in good spirits.

With our fuel, we continued along our way and slowly made it into the inlet, anchoring opposite of City Marina on the Ashley River at about 0530. Next afternoon, we managed to get into City Marina on the "Megadock." Expensive marina, but a nice one.

In the evening we went looking for BBQ and found a place called "Oink!" (Eds: we thought it was called Oink! because of the giant neon sign proclaiming it, but we discovered later that it's actually called Nick's), Not sure if it was two days of not much food (Noi didn't feel much like cooking) or that the food was indeed excellent, but the pulled pork and fried green tomatoes (complete with a local IPA beer) really hit the spot. In subsequent days, we explored Charleston, which has much to recommend it. In fact, we'd say it's currently the favorite of the cities we've visited. We've been to several of the BBQ joints and loved them all (Sticky Fingers, Swig & Swine, etc.) and a truly amazing seafood place called Hyman's.

Meanwhile, we have met some wonderful people: A guy named Ed Snowden, captain of a superyacht. Ed is from North Carolina, the same state that his more famous (infamous) namesake hails from. That's caused him lots of problems. Also, Richard and Kate on S/V Atalanta -- they are heading to the Western Caribbean but have done the "Thorny Path" through the Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean and had lots of good advice.

Our current plan is to leave Tuesday, head offshore and hopefully make it to Fernandina Beach, Fla. in a few days.

Best Laid Plans ...

Sunrise east of the Gulf Stream.

"All human plans are subject to ruthless revision by Nature, or Fate, or whatever one prefers to call the powers behind the Universe." -- Arthur C. Clarke.

It's a good thing that flexibility is the ethos of cruising: at every turn, we've had to adapt. The latest is a big change.

Our passage to the BVIs did not go as planned. We got a good weather window from Chris Parker (whose forecasts were pretty much spot on throughout, btw). The window called for us leaving as early as possible Saturday afternoon (Oct. 31), so we hit the dock at Morehead (actually it was a delicate operation that involved not hitting the dock despite a wicked current), topped off fuel and water, crew (Christopher Joyce; Morgan Joyce) stepped aboard and we were headed out Beaufort Inlet -- all within about 1 1/2 hours.

We motored east for several hours before reaching the Gulf Stream at about 11 p.m. The crossing was a little bumpy -- especially for the first hour or two near the western wall, but nothing too bad. Once we entered the GS proper, everything smoothed out, thanks to a moderately strong southerly breeze. In 9 hours, we were across.

Noi trying to catch Mahi Mahi.

For the next few days things went generally well, with few problems other than a head overflowing on the intake side and some leaking chain plates on the starboard side (above the pilot berth). Eventually, however, we noticed that the bilge pump was cycling a lot more than we would expect and discovered a fair amount of water below decks. After shutting all the thruhulls -- including the bilge pump (for those mechanically inclined -- it has a check valve but no vented loop).

Chris Joyce enjoying a well-deserved nap.

I disconnected the electric bilge pump and put the discharge directly in a bucket and over the side to eliminate the possibility that water was siphoning in through the thruhull. In the process, I tested the check valve and it seemed to be working properly. After a few hours, we were still pumping about a gallon/minute out of the bilge and there seemed to be no end in sight. Of course, the bilge pump could have kept up with that, but what if it burned out? I imprudently did not have a spare aboard. In any case, we didn't want to do the bucket brigade all the way to Tortola -- at least another 7 days, maybe more.

After consulting with crew, in which we briefly discussed the idea of calling at Bermuda (still four days away and we had no detailed charts for a tricky entrance), we decided to turn back.

On our way back to the GS, we sailed through a pretty intense squall -- at least 35 knots, perhaps 40, with a double-reefed main and the yankee out (still, way too much sail). I later discovered that our radar antenna was knocked off its mount during the 45 minutes or so we rode that weather (surfing along at 8.9 knots!). But it was all just wind; no waves.

In the meantime, we used the sat phone to contact our all around guru and shore-side support person -- Mary Heinritz, who in turn was able to contact Chris Parker for another GS forecast, going the other way. Chris' forecast wasn't great, but not too bad either -- east to southeast 20 knot winds and nine-foot seas across the Stream.

When we finally arrived, the wind at the stream was less than forecast and the crossing was in fact even easier than the way out.

The timing though wasn't the best. We got across the stream in the evening and were off Beaufort Inlet again by the wee hours. We didn't want to go into the generally unfamiliar harbor at night, so loitered offshore in windy and rainy conditions. By daybreak, we were able to make our way in. Noi noticed dozens of iridescent shapes darting under the water in Symbiosis' wake -- Mahi Mahi. She tried to throw a line in and catch one, but no success.

Morgan and Scott.

Finally we arrived at Portside Marina and have spent the last few days doing projects and putting the boat back in order. We've decided on a modified plan that will involve some shorter coastal hopes of a few hundred miles (a few days, that is), each.

Overdue ...

Just a quick note to let everyone know we are again in Morehead City after turning back due to some mechanical issues with the boat. Rather than try for the BVIs again (sans the crew we had expected), we've decided to take a different route altogether: a few short hops down the coast (Charleston? Savannah? Somewhere in Florida?) Then Cuba and either the Thorny Path or simply west to Panama.

All is well and we are taking our time with some repairs and reorganization.