Thursday, May 26, 2016

Made It!


We just finished the 170 nautical miles from Virgin Gorda to Antigua!

The dreaded Anegada Passage was a bit salty, but not too bad. Nobody got sea sick, either on Symbiosis or on buddy boat Utopia.

Caught our biggest barracuda to date -- we estimate 4.5' -- but were too busy to take a picture. I managed to save our lure (not to mention my fingers) as well as the fish by deftly removing the hook and letting him swim free.

Sometime Wednesday evening the traveler on our staysail boom chaffed through and crashed to leeward. It scared the hell out of us for a few seconds until we realized what had happened. It turned out to be a relatively easy fix.

Otherwise, smooth (motor) sailing!

Sunday, May 22, 2016

A Few Thoughts About Those Online Sailing Forums

Many years ago, I discovered the subsuming world of online sailing forums.

At one time or another, I participated in many of them, namely Sailnet, Sailing Anarchy, but mostly Cruisers Forum, which is (was) in theory more attuned to my desire to ultimately go cruising.

Over the years, I wrangled with the best and the worst of the online denizens -- on topics ranging from cruising budgets to heavy weather tactics. Naturally, I had more experience on some topics than others. On some things, I had no experience at all. That didn't stop me from jumping in and I do think, more often than not, managing to hold my own against the other equally ignorant participants.

At any given time on these forums (or fora, if you prefer the Latin plural), you will find a continuous churn of such ever-popular topics as whether or not to carry a gun aboard. This one is especially popular, i.e., obsessive, with my fellow Americans. The answer, in my mind, is pretty straight forward; however, it's a topic that as you might imagine gets quickly and hopelessly caught up in domestic politics. Not much talk of the true practicalities. Most of the "discussion" quickly descends into ad hominem attacks and anarchy. These threads are invariably shut down by the poor forum moderators. I have seen this happen -- no exaggeration -- at least 100 times.

Hand-in-hand with the gun topic is any number of other threads dealing with modern piracy. The premise is usually that incident X of piracy justifies carrying a gun aboard. Setting aside attacks off the Somalia coast (of which there have been virtually none since 2009, the year of the Maersk Alabama hijacking that inspired the film Captain Philips), the incidents of piracy at sea are so small as to be almost nonexistent. One's chances of getting hit by lightening at sea, for example, are infinitely higher than being attacked by pirates.

Now, I know what you're saying. Yes, these things do happen. A pair of incidents last year off the coast of Trinidad (involving Venezuelan pirates) were quite brutal and got a lot of attention. Even a cursory examination of the incident, however, shows how useless a gun would have been in this circumstance. Five to six pirates, all armed with assault rifles, on a fast-moving boat. Those hapless sailors didn't stand a chance. It's unfortunate indeed, but it pays to keep things in perspective: these attacks are directed at a fraction of a fraction of the cruisers out there. Ninety-nine point nine percent of us will never experience more than petty theft at anchor.


Yet other common forum threads go something like this: "I have absolutely no sailing experience but want to buy a boat for a solo circumnavigation. What kind of boat would be good for this?"

To land lubbers, it probably seems like an exceedingly naive query. Indeed, it seems so to most sailors, too. The problem is that while only a tiny fraction of even much more experienced folks will ever embark on such a voyage, some percentage of rank neophytes do so each year. Many of them learn along the way, doing just fine, albeit after a typically steep learning curve. Others make headlines. Does giving encouragement ("Follow your dreams, man. Yolo!") amount to a moral hazard? I never decided.

Nearly as controversial is the subject of what constitutes a "blue-water boat." Should it be a monohull or multihull? Some brands have a "blue-water" reputation; others not so much. No easy answers here and no entirely right answers either. Feelings get hurt in these threads because someone invariably runs down a certain brand as "not blue-water" and someone else who owns that boat takes umbrage.

My personal opinion: the sea will find any weakness in construction, so a poorly constructed boat is not a good choice to go offshore. I can think of a few of those boats, but won't mention any by name. When it comes to design, some boats (and I'm talking sailboats here, because that's what I know ...) are designed to go on long voyages; others, not so much.

I acknowledge that in the past, I have been a partisan in the seemingly never-ending monohull vs. multihull debate. I still prefer monohulls for their practicality, cost and aesthetics. But, I am much more of a moderate on the subject than I used to be. I can see lots of advantages to a cruising catamaran. I certainly understand why people make that choice. If cost were not an issue, I would have more seriously considered that option myself.

Anyway, don't get me wrong. I did learn a good many things by my online participation. There always seemed to be a contingent of forum folks who actually have enough experience with the subject at hand to be useful sources. But while I still occasionally browse the topic threads when I have decent wifi (which is rare these days), for the most part I don't have much desire to post anymore. That's ironic, I suppose, because I know a lot more now than when I was enthusiastic about jumping on the threads and dispensing advice. Some of it probably wasn't very good.

I suspect I am not alone. It seems more than plausible that I represent a natural trend -- the talkers vs. the doers.

It probably explains a lot about these forums.

Saturday, May 21, 2016

Culmination Of The Grand (De)-Tour




Back in the 1970s, a group of scientists realized that they were living in an extraordinary time: If they could only get their act together, and quickly, they had the opportunity to see all the outer planets but Pluto in one go. All they had to do was build a pair of deep-space probes that were more advanced than anything yet done. An extremely rare alignment of the bodies in the outer solar system made possible a sling-shot method, using a gravity assist from the sun, Jupiter, Uranus and Neptune. But, if they missed their narrow window of opportunity, it would be left to their great, great grandchildren to take another stab at it.

They called the endeavor "The Grand Tour," but most of us know it as the Voyager missions.

What Symbiosis has been doing for the past several months is something I have dubbed "The Grand De-Tour" in homage to the Voyagers. (Because, yes, I am a very big geek). 

And, it is over. Forgive my shifting metaphors, but now we are back on the main highway.

When we first left Morehead, N.C., in November, we expected a two-week passage east and south to the British Virgin Islands -- specifically, to Tortola. As of yesterday, we cleared into this U.K. territory for the first time, anchoring in the very harbour (Soper's Hole) that we had aimed for way back then. Instead, our grand detour has taken us down all the winding (and one-way) local roads and even a few narrow alleys. But we are thankful for seeing some interesting things that we would have otherwise bypassed -- namely, the Bahamas, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico.

Soper's Hole.
We are still traveling in company with our good friends Diane and Frank aboard their beautiful Caliber 39, Utopia. It's been good to bounce around weather-routing thoughts and anchorage ideas with them and arrive at a collective plan. But, that will soon end. Utopia will haul out in Antigua for hurricane season at a marina there that is recognized as among the safest places "in the box" (inside the hurricane-prone part of the Caribbean). We on the other hand are heading to Grenada or Trinidad for hurricane season.

A "pain-killer" ... to assuage the slings and arrows of the "Thorny Path.'

But with the season only a few weeks away, we are trying to get there as soon as we can. We won't make it by June 1, but we are banking on the fact that hurricanes are fairly rare in the Caribbean until the latter half of the season. 

It looks like next Wednesday/Thursday will be a good time to cross over to St. Martin and possibly Antigua. Arriving in Antigua will put the rest of the Leeward and Windward islands chains more along a north-south axis, allowing us a lot more flexibility for moving southward, as the easterly trades will be more or less on our beam, a good place for the wind to be on a sailboat!

Putting up the BVIs courtesy flag.